Buffa's Buffet: Give Eovaldi's Deli some love
The deli has been pleasing stomachs for decades.
There’s something eternally unique about walking into a local restaurant/deli/eatery, seeing familiar faces and acquiring certain smells and aromas coming from the kitchen.
At Russell’s on Macklind, it’s the midlife crisis-curing biscuits. At Southwest Diner, it’s Jonathan’s Fiery Scramble or the life-saving burrito. At Edibles and Essentials, it’s the tower of French fries and fried ribs, cherry smoked and able to beat any other in town. Every time I walk into Salt and Smoke, I look for the pulled chicken.
When it comes to the Hill in St. Louis, America’s last true slice of Little Italy, you could put a blindfold on and easily find a good lunch or dinner. Cunnetto’s on The Hill, Zia’s, Lorenzo Trattoria’s, Anthonino’s Taverna, Adrianna’s, and Guido’s all offer a wide array of standing ovation-inducing Italian dishes. While it may sound like I listing random names from a “Godfather” movie, those places exist.
Don’t forget about Eovaldi’s Deli though. Located slightly west of the true heart of Hill action (that would be Marconi), this lovely corner spot sings consistency. The inside is small yet intimate, resisting change and holding onto a standard. The featured players are subs, salads, and assorted dishes. The side salad/side sandwich combo can’t be beat.
When that ham or roast beef-freshly sliced very recently and bought from the best of the best butchers in town-hits your lips, forget about it. The bad day has been taken care of, and the new day is already thriving with a full belly. Eovaldi’s doesn’t slow you down, overstuff, or make you think about not returning.
The two ladies who could meet you at the counter-both nice yet blunt women-have a pad and pen ready to go. I get the iPad revolution is taking over, but there’s something about a lady with a hair-tie keeping her dark hair in place asking for your order with a pen and paper. Fine accountants like my friend P.J. The Scoreboard Mang may disagree (or agree), but this tactic still brings a smile out of me.
I get the special in both departments: think of the main club sandwich ingredient meats, but made with fresher ingredients. Same goes for the Special Salad, which carries the best salad dressing on the Hill. Also, you’re a six minute walk from Yogi Berra’s house. Go say hi, ensuring that 90% of the time, a greeting works maybe half the time.
Living five minutes from the Hill, which got its name by being so close to the highest point of the city, is a sweet bonus to living in the city. I can go over there and get everything I need. My wife’s favorite bottle of red at John Viviano’s store, the cannoli(s) at Vitale’s Bakery, a macchiato at Shaw’s Coffee, and a meal. Or, I sip the hot drink and walk around the neighborhood, which mostly hasn’t changed much since I was younger and smaller.
If you come into St. Louis and want a signature STL dish that doesn’t come in the form of square-sliced pizza or a toasted ravioli, give Eovaldi’s Deli a shot. Eat local, if you want the local joints to stick around.
I believe I’ve been summoned here to comment. I can’t argue with your recommendation because I haven’t had Eovaldi’s but I’m sure it’s a fine establishment. Back in the day, I always seemed to go with Adriana’s when I’d be in that area for lunch and never saw a reason to try a different option.