Russell’s on Macklind delivers a comforting escape for hungry South City families
Comfort food and top level service make this one a hit.
A blanket greeted my wife as she sat down on the cozy deck seating area at Russell’s at Macklind. Located at Devonshire and Macklind, right in the heart of the district, the eatery boasts a menu that generates comfort for lunch or dinner, but the warm blanket on a cool weekend afternoon was a nice touch. A common trend at this particular brunch hot spot.
Having gone there for years and knowing the staff fairly well, Russell and Emily Ping’s restaurant takes on a whole new level of connection for people wanting more than merely food. First time or not, a family feeling develops quickly. Instead of worrying about not getting good service or the waiter not being personable or happy looking, those things are always a given at Russell’s. Heck, Nikki, a waitress, always has a smile on her face and can dazzle any table with conversation, while Faron and Maggie commands the front of the house.
Upstairs, Trish makes a mean and tomato juice-lean Bloody Mary. Every bartender makes a different blend of the classic drink, but it’s safe to say that Trish favors the stronger end. She’s a bartender that could have fit into the Deadwood saloon setting with ease. This Bloody has the jawline and structure to slap the rough day feel right off your mind, packing enough vodka to match the moderate price. The blend is potent, and she can make a less strong version. For me, it’s when in Rome mode, so hit me with your best shot. Trish did.
Well known for their biscuits and cinnamon roll for their apps, the wife and I chose the former due to the sweet tooth destroying the rest of our meal. Some things our parents teach us do stick, unfortunately. The half order was enough to build a bridge towards the main entree. Lathered with honey, blueberry preserves and butter, all you need is one or two of those golden beauties. No one else in town can match their biscuits. Yes, I checked.
Is there anything more American and sexy than steak and eggs for breakfast? The sirloin strip is slathered in a tasty reduction sauce that brings out every juicy bite of the plentiful slice of red meat. It’s safer to have chicken, but sometimes it’s good to be bad. The pile of potatoes that came with it needs a better defense attorney, but the sauce makes the crispy pile of carbs even better. Once again, it’s about comfort.
The comfort of being away from home, but in a setting that could be the location of any big family gathering at Thanksgiving. The comfort of good food on a big plate served by interesting people. The comfort of going somewhere, and not being let down or alienated by a dozen 65 inch television screens. It feels like home.
The Smelly Stinky Pig was packed with bacon, gorgonzola, and honey atop toasted ciabatta bread. It’s big enough for a full round of leftovers. Oh, and the cinnamon roll came at the end, a care package from the staff that never forget regulars. To call it big would be like saying Henry Cavill just works out; from the delicious icing to the thorough serving, Russell’s roll packs a unique punch. Cinna-bon yourself to Macklin for the best cinnamon roll in town. Is it worth fighting Jason Statham for? Almost.
Seven years after first walking through their doors for brunch, the Russell’s staff haven’t lost any class. The economy can sink and swim, but the service at a restaurant can remain the same with the right people in charge.
After all, it’s hard out there right now for local restaurants. Billy’s on Broadway closed this week, and every week sees 2-3 new places close. It’s spiraling faster than any time since the pandemic, which fractured a market that was already broken. If you can, wherever you live, go out and support the small shops that go the extra mile more times than not. If you’re in St. Louis and want a great brunch spot or anytime comfort food spot, head over to Russell’s. Good luck getting past their bakery without a couple selections.
Before you go, leave a little love at the door for Ping, who underwent heart surgery recently and is slowly recovering. A post on Facebook showed him working on a new menu that will hopefully warm the people up this winter.
A nice warm blanket is a good start.