So long, Mom's Deli, for just a little while

The longtime St. Louis south city favorite is closing its original location on Feb. 23.

Certain restaurants gather steam over the years, especially if you have a family. When I first walked into Mom’s Deli right off the intersection of Jamieson and Lansdowne, the south city residency had only begun. When you move into the neighborhood, there’s an unofficial newsletter sent out about the best places to eat around town. This spot was on the list and never left, and for 18 years, I got to enjoy their sandwiches.

Opening in 1977 and enduring for nearly 50 years, Mom’s Deli didn’t have the space of LeGrand’s up the street or the classic location of Blues City Deli and the signature item of Gioia’s Deli, but those differences played into its charm. Walking into Mom’s Deli was like walking into Mom’s kitchen more than anything. It was homely and instantly comforting, like strolling into a relative’s home as a meal was prepared.

You’d encounter a group of fierce ladies diligently composing several sandwiches at the same rate as pit crews change tires during a NASCAR race. The next station was for pasta and potato salads or full links of sausage or various types of meat to take home and prepare. Behind the customers waiting in line stood a giant pantry wall of dry goods and enough chip options to satisfy even the pickiest eaters. A stocked fridge of the classics awaited the taste buds while the belly prepared for World War III with whatever was about to be consumed.

Here’s the deal, though. No sandwich there ever gave you a stomach ache. The Mom’s Special was my favorite. A variation on the club sandwich with the three main types of meat stacked between cheese and veggies. The type of sandwich that, when split in half, you could have sworn the ingredients had been living together for days. The Mom’s sauce that came with it was just right with one spread.

Selling frozen Ted Drewes and candy bars at the register was an extra kick in the head. Everything eaten there was so good, that you’d wait in a line stretching outside the door and sometimes down Jamieson Avenue. After 47 years in business, that joy will temporarily come to an end.

The main cause of the closing is due to strife between siblings who don’t carry the same interest level in owning the business. The owner of the property may have raised the lease to a point where the remaining sibling who wants to keep the thing running, Denise Vago, couldn’t afford on her own. Her brother and sister want out, which leaves Denise looking for a new location for Mom’s Deli.

So, it’s a goodbye without being “I’ll never see you again,” with Denise sharing that they’re looking for a new spot right now. Until then, head over there before Feb. 23 and get one last sandwich for the holdover. Maybe grab a sandwich boat and slowly knock it down before spring break. While there’s more hope of it coming back, Mom’s Deli is the latest local restaurant darling to shutter its doors.

The mark of a place like this is felt in generations. The same type of family that owns the business frequented their establishment for the past 50 years. Whether it was A meal stop before a baseball game or an easy dinner at home with some savory authenticity, Mom’s Deli provided the goods. They were there when a fine sandwich was necessary instead of a few slabs of meat coupled with stale and potato chips. When I started going there, it would be a few years before my son was born. By the time Vinny could walk, he was picking out bags of chips. The last time he went there, the kid was almost as tall as my wife.

The impact of a loss like this is felt in the generations it’s served over the years, the same souls who will find a new spot for a little while.

The next time you drive by a LeGrands or Crown Candy Kitchen, head in for a meal. A sandwich is the goal but a memorable experience and contribution to the idea of eating local is forever retained.

I’ll see you around, Mom’s Deli. I’ll miss the kitchen.